Appleby's Cheshire and crisp Gala apple

Tomme de Savoie reflects terrior

Easy and satisfying are two great attributes of cheese, one of the best entertaining options for the fall season.

Shorter, crisper days, bring about an almost instinctual shift sending our tastebuds in search of fuller, richer, deeper, more complex flavors. Gone are light and refreshing notes of summer meals, replaced by hearty and multifaceted textures and flavors that signal an end of the growing season:  crisp, orchard-fresh apples, pears and bright orange pumpkins, just in time for sweater weather.

Arriving on the scene simultaneously are cheeses produced in spring, just now reaching the magic moment of six months of age. Cheeses made with the first flush of fresh spring grasses have begun to reach their peak of flavor. Even better, cheeses made last year have attained grand-dame status of 12 to 18 months and are being released in all their deliciousness.

What’s so special about spring and fall cheeses, you might ask? It’s all about the milk. Bountiful access to sweet and tender spring grasses happily coincides with the calving and kidding season, producing copious amounts of fresh milk of the highest quality.

Animals afforded a varied pasture diet produce incredibly flavorful milk that is higher in butterfat, perfect for making cheese. Likewise, in the fall, the grasses again green up with the return of cooler temperatures. The end of the lactation cycle draws near with animals producing less milk that is more concentrated in protein and butterfat. Less milk, but great milk for cheese.

As with great wine, cheese that is made and aged well loses its edge, becoming smoother, more refined and complex over time. As cheese ages, it loses moisture, becoming harder, drier, and more concentrated.

Another benefit of careful aging -- after about 6 months, tiny crystals of calcium lactate begin to form in the cheese. These pleasantly crunchy, slightly salty crystals are formed as moisture evaporates and calcium lactate crystallizes within the paste or eyes. The older the cheese, the more well developed the “crunch.”

Who do we have to thank for this marvel of nature -- besides the grass which fed the animal (and the farmer who grew the grass) and the maker of the cheese? A little known or celebrated artisan, the affineur.

During aging, or affinage, cheeses are cared for by specially trained professionals, who spend much of their day hard at work in cool, temperature and humidity controlled caves, turning, wiping, brushing and otherwise tending to the ripening wheels which require constant, careful, hands-on attention, to age properly.

A few stand outs to seek out:

Aged Gouda – (6 months to 5 years or more) Amber colored and notes of caramel and butterscotch sweetness make this a stellar, easy to love cheese. The longer the aging, the more intense the flavor. The finest examples often hail from Holland (look for Rembrandt and Old Amsterdam), today American Artisan makers are producing great wheels as well.

Cave Aged Gruyère – (grew-YAIR) aged 12 months or more -- One of the finest, most consistently enjoyable cheeses with a bold, fruity, nutty flavor that is sure to please. High Alpine grazing make this cheese from Switzerland a sure winner.

Ossau Iraty – (OH-so ee-rah-TEE) 6 months or more – A delectable and very ancient recipe from the Basque region between France and Spain. This cheese is an ideal example of the wonders of sheep milk, with a rich, nutty, olivey flavor that is unforgettable.

Because of their age, these cheeses pair well fruity, smooth reds that are low in tannins. Another good option is a Port or Madiera style with elegant, nutty notes. Don't forget these cheeses pair perfectly with peak of season fruits like pears, apples and grapes which are not only a delicious palate cleanser but also provide a sweet counterpoint to the savory, salty notes of the cheese.

Aged cheeses are not demure. At their best, they are stand up and take notice cheeses, flavor bursting forth and evolving from the first taste through a series of levels and ending with a long, smooth, lingering finish. There is a lot going on in a piece of well aged cheese. Try a few at your next fall gathering and prepare to savor the flavor of a truly memorable cheese.